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The distinct style of Italian industrialist Gianni Agnelli will be instantly recognizable by anyone who has ever browsed a menswear blog or uttered the word sprezzatura without irony. And although there has been a lot of talk about how to mimic the Fiat chairman’s moves, whether it’s pairing hiking boots with flannel suits or wearing wristwatches over them. shirt cuffs, designer Denis Frison took it one step further and recreated an iconic piece from the wardrobe of the man they called it. Avvocato (“The lawyer”).
Frisian’s Avvocato jacket is based on a much shared photo of Agnelli watching a match at Turin football stadium in which he wears a beige Prince of Wales tweed jacket with a Brooks Brothers shirt, wool tie, beige pants and hiking boots. The photo has long served as inspiration for Frisian, who considers Agnelli a muse (and counts his grandson Lapo Elkann as a client).
“Agnelli has inspired my entire career in design,†says Frison Robb Report. “It is inspired by Italian gentlemen of the 70s and 80s. And Gianni Agnelli was the best testimony of that time.
So when Frisian was presented to the owners of the Italian fabric factory Tollegno 1900, it jumped at the chance to revive one of Agnelli’s most revered looks. Using the photo as a template, Frison teamed up with the 121-year-old factory to produce an exclusive fabric in the same large-scale pattern and beige and white tones as Agnelli’s favorite.
Denis frisian
The recreation is made from a winter weight wool that is typically used in knits rather than jackets, which Frison says gives the 100% wool fabric the softness of cashmere. While originally intended for use only in bespoke projects, the designer used the textile in a bespoke jacket that borrows its details from the original: notched lapels, flap pockets and two button closure. .
While the jacket is stylish à la Agnelli in line with an OCBD and a knit tie, Frisian says he also likes to wear it with a pair of distressed Levi’s 501s, a Wrangler shirt, and suede moccasins or moccasins. “This is, for me, one of the best expressions of this jacket,†he says. But if he’s feeling a little more dressy, Frison adds that he’ll pair it with pleated flannel pants and a gray knit tie.
The exclusive fabric is also available for bespoke orders, which offer the possibility of deviating from its raw material. Under these conditions, Frisian prefers to use it to make a double-breasted jacket or his brand’s more casual hunting jacket. Whether the fabric is used to make a faithful Avvocato jacket or something personalized, it’s worth asking why we’re still talking about Agnelli’s style all these years later.
“Let’s put it that way,†Frisian says. “It’s like a blue flannel suit or a 1970 Ferrari: you never get bored and they never get old. It is something that you are always looking for and always want in your closet or in your garage. Gianni Agnelli is the exact expression of this Italian elegance.
Frisian can’t help you mark this vintage Ferrari, but he can provide you with what comes closest to a descent into the Avvocato wardrobe.
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